If there’s something for which very many Belgians are grateful to the Italian community in our country, it’s the Mediterranean cuisine. The undisputed trailblazer in Maasmechelen was restaurant ‘Da Lidia’ – which will celebrate its half century next year. Lidia Felicetti introduced her guests to the traditional cooking of her country of origin. Son Marco (61) is continuing the tradition in Leut.
A quote from the culinary guide ‘Gault&Millau 2022’: With great bravura, Marco Cellini produces authentic Italian cuisine, which he creates in his well-known passionate style.” “Authentic” and “passionate” are two adjectives so often used to characterise a person that they start to sound corny. But, the chef and owner of ‘Osteria Cellini’ in Leut may unashamedly lay claim to these characteristics. And ‘passionate’ may even be an understatement. That becomes apparent when the truffle supplier comes over during our conversation. As Marco opens the box, he has a big smile on his face. The sight of a few dozen black mushrooms makes him happy. “A beautiful product makes me happy”, he says enthusiastically. And his authenticity also turns out not to have been exaggerated. ‘Semplice e buono’ is his culinary motto. Simple and good: at ‘Osteria Cellini’ you are in the right place for this.
“I got my love of cooking from my mother. She came to Belgium from Marche in 1952, together with her mother, sister Mafalda and brothers Osvaldo and Italo. A few years later, she met my father, who was from the same village. Later on during the seventies, when he started developing a lung disease, we had to find a way to put food on the table. That’s how ‘Da Lidia’ began. Gradually, me, my brother Vincenzo and my sister Elvira joined the business: me in the kitchen, and both of them waiting. In the mid-nineties, I took over from my mother. That went well, but in 2001 tragedy struck. Vincenzo became ill and died at barely 41 years of age.” In 2005, Marco left ‘Da Lidia’ to start a new business in Maasmechelen Village. Ten years ago, he closed the doors to take a year off, but one year soon became three. “At a certain point, I longed to get back to cooking. When Alex Clevers of the restaurant ‘Vivendum’ in Dilsen-Stokkem wanted to sell his second business (editorial note: ‘Neuta’ in Leut), I was completely persuaded to get back to work. Together with my wife Maddalena – she designed the interior – I turned it into ‘Osteria Cellini’.”
Marco Cellini still holds his Italian nationality, but feels himself to be a ‘Maasmechelaar’ through and through. “We grew up together with the Belgians, and were accepted by them. I think it was a lot harder for the first generation to integrate. Do you know who did a lot for us? The late Dré Steemans. He was a true Belgian, but must have had some Italian blood running through his veins, because he promoted Italian culture like few others.”
What, for Marco, is the most beautiful part of Maasmechelen? “It’s not one specific place, it’s the nature. I get that from my uncles, who were hunters. I am not a hunter, but I do love searching for porcini (editorial note: Cep), to prepare delicious things. You can make fantastic things with them. Simply on a bruschetta, or in pasta, gorgeous! I also use them to prepare coniglio all cacciatora, rabbit hunter’s style. - A really classic dish, but so tasty.” He never trained as a professional chef: “I looked into a lot of pans when my mother was cooking. Before opening ‘Da Lidia’, she would cook for mineworkers who came to Belgium without their family. The food had to be hearty! Pasta with ribs, for example. She simmered the meat for six or seven hours, until it was very tender. String meat (laughs). I have made my own version of this, pasta with an oxtail ragout. There are other recipes of hers to which I have added my own touch, but always with respect for her recipes.”